Secretly for a while now, I’ve wanted to be Joan Didion. Nothing brings this home like driving up to northern California. I always take the I-5 and I’ve come to love that long boring road. It’s always hot. The food is bad. I drive too fast. And it feels like I’m never going to get there. But I think of Didion and try to pay careful attention.
Sometimes, the not-getting-there feeling is really okay. I had that experience the other day coming back to LA after dropping the girls off with family up near San Francisco. I hit a stretch of road somewhere south of Gilroy where the towns don’t seem to have names and thought that I could drive forever. I had a great Spotify playlist courtesy of Kajon Cermak (KCRW traffic goddess). The iced coffee was pretty good and the light was fantastic and I was one with the road.
The freeway was closed for a patch near Bakerfield. This seems an awesome CalTrans undertaking. I kept thinking of all the preparation to close a stretch of major interstate. Signs for miles and I started wondering what the date actually was and somehow thought this road closure wouldn’t actually happen to me. How long will the detour be? Shit. I’m not going to get home until 11pm. But then thanks to Kajon’s skillful DJ-ing, Wayne Hancock started singing about busted up love and hitting the road and it all seemed a fine adventure once again.
Bakersfield. Almost 100 degrees at sundown. I know from my stepson that Bakerfield is pretty much the car wash capital of the world. As the sun went down and a cacophony of insects hit my windshield, I understood why.
Bakersfield. Or maybe just the outskirts. You can’t see much once the sun goes down from the freeway. There are some distant lights and the flatness of the land is large. There is a distinct farm and animal smell. It is not beautiful.
The detour onto the smaller roads afforded me the opportunity to pass an 18-wheeler on a two lane highway. As a city dweller, I had almost forgotten that fleeting rush. At a stop sign, CalTrans workers stood directing traffic; their orange vests illuminated by an enormous light they’d rigged up. The halo of that light attracted every insect my car hadn’t taken down earlier. Set against an ink dark sky, it was a floating, flying particulate explosion. A momentary, live and moving fireworks display.
Was it 100 degrees while you were stuck in the car?
Fortunately, my air conditioner was working. It was more the idea of it…
glad you enjoyed yourself. travel like that is always fun!!
Ahhh… I know that stretch well. Good music can make or break that drive. Good music (ok and the coffee too) makes it enjoyable, but without… yeah, let’s not go there. The smell of the cattle ranches always does me in, an unmistakeable stench fills the interstate…
Makes you wonder how anyone eats McDonald’s on that drive…But it’s such a CA sort of thing–that drive.
I think Didion would like your lyrical illuminating touch to the road trip story. Thanks
Thanks Lisa. I’m working on memorizing her packing list for travel–two skirts, mohair shawl, typewriter, bourbon, house key…
I have made that drive about two million times and I still hate every second of it. I would visit Northern California so much more if it weren’t for I5….
Maybe you just need some really good music? Or permission to indulge in junk food since that’s most of what you find? I don’t know. I’m not sure when I developed my appreciation because it sure would be easy to hate. My stepson wanted to start an I love the 5 campaign. T-shirts and everything.
I love your writing, that is all!
Thanks Ciaran!
Love the post! But OMG! thank god your AC was working!
I think I’d have written a very different post if I didn’t have AC!
One of my favorite things was to drive by myself and listen to music. In Arizona there are so many open roads that I used to spend hours on. I had mixed tapes just for driving.
Do you have the music mine app from KCRW? It is unbelievably good.
Just thinking about Joan Didion makes me cry….
The freedom of the road is a fantastic thing. I will check out that app. Sounds great. But Yvonne–you scared me about Didion, I had to make sure there wasn’t some bad news. She’s a special writer for so many women (and men). Her personal tragedy is so hard to even think about, much less write with such grace.
Thanks for reading.
Kind of felt like I was sharing the ride with you, Deborah. I have taken that route many times and your description is right-on. Great people in the places along the way. Even with a windshield covered with dead butterflies, an ice coffee and good music can bring a smile and make your independent spirit soar. Great piece.
Thanks Shari! Sometimes, there is nothing like being on the open road.
Yes….we know that drive well….we drive that route when we go to SF even though the coast is so much prettier…it’s all about the getting there! Ha!